When Charli xcx strutted in a white dress with a sash that said “Miss Should Be Headliner” across her body, the internet lost its collective mind, and rightfully so. In a single garment, designer Briah Artemis managed to spark a conversation about festival politics, pop culture and the power of fashion to make a statement, all with a fun sense of humor and taste.
The Brat star hosted an A-list after party at the Guess Jeans luxury compound for the brand’s annual desert takeover for Coachella, as it debuted a new creative partnership with Japanese graphic artist, Verdy. Throughout the weekend, Guess Jeans hosted its community of artists, tastemakers and global brand ambassadors, from the Charli xcx afters to Don Toliver closing out the weekend with a takeover.
One thing’s for sure: Briah Artemis isn’t just dressing the moment — she’s helping define it. As for whether Charli should have been a headliner? Let the dress, and the screams from the crowd, answer that one. Keep your eyes on Briah! This is just the first stitch in what’s bound to be a wildly influential thread.
Below, PAPER caught up with the designer to talk viral design, working with Charli xcx and what it’s like to watch your creation become a meme and a movement.
First things first: What was your reaction when you saw Charli xcx wearing your dress at Coachella?
I was so excited. She’s been the one person I’ve been wanting to dress. I think she really speaks to the Briah Artemis identity of not giving a shit and looking good while doing it. What made it even better was that it was at Coachella. Being from LA, Coachella is basically a national holiday.
What inspired the phrase “Should Have Been A Headliner”?
Chris Horan, Charli’s stylist, actually came up with that. And I mean, they weren’t wrong
Can you walk us through the design process of the dress, from sketch to party?
First, I sent them a picture of the sash dress. They came up with the slogan. I sketched out a few options, and we both agreed it had to be a mini and something she could party in. I then quickly made the first draft with some left over jersey I had in my studio. I sent it in for approval — got the fabric rush printed in a day, while working all day styling. I made the dress in two days and overnighted it on Wednesday.
How did the collaboration come about? Did she reach out to you directly?
Chris’ team reached out to me directly. Which I’m a huge fan of Charli and the team, so I was super excited
Was there a specific moment during Coachella when you realized the dress had gone viral?
I actually didn’t really know because I don’t have Twitter, but my friends started texting me being like, “Is this your dress? It’s all over my feed.”
What does it mean to you to create fashion that speaks so loudly, literally and culturally?
That’s actually what Briah Artemis is all about. I want people to have an opinion about my pieces, whether they’re upset or love it. It’s all about evoking an emotion for me.
The dress feels like protest couture. Do you consider yourself a political designer?
Definitely not, but a big part of Briah Artemis is humor. I never want to take myself or my pieces too seriously.
What was the fabric choice, and how did you make the lettering pop visually and emotionally?
I work with bamboo jersey in almost all of my collections. I feel like it really complements the body very well and drapes like a hand knit would. For my Spring 2025 collection, I made a physical custom sash online saying “Miss Universe,” took a picture of it on the body so the shadows would be right, then finalized all the artwork on photoshop. When making the sashes custom, I just change out on photoshop, but still try to keep the same shadowing effect.
How do you balance bold messaging with wearability in your designs?
It’s rare that I put text on my pieces, so when I do, I make sure it’s super intentional or at least funny.
What designers or movements influence your work most?
Alexander McQueen, ’90s Helmut Lang, Margiela and Comme [des Garçons].
Did you expect the internet to react as wildly as it did? Any favorite tweets or memes?
Actually no, I didn’t even know if she’d get photographed in it. My favorite has definitely been Daily Mail calling the sash controversial. I just think they’re so funny. Who knew a white dress with a sash printed on it could be such a topic?
Coachella is a runway in itself. What were your thoughts on the fashion overall this year?
In all honesty, I’ve hardly kept up with it. All I’ve paid attention to is Lady Gaga and Charli, and they both killed it.
What do you think it says about pop culture right now that a dress can say so much?
I think it’s so funny. People take things so seriously, and it just makes me laugh that a dress is making headlines. I love when people are have opinions about my stuff, even when they’re bad.
If you could put one of your designs on any pop icon, living or dead, who would it be?
I mean, Charli. Lady Gaga, Madonna, Miley Cyrus and Daft Punk — I just love their music.
Do you feel the fashion industry gives enough credit to young, independent designers?
Definitely not. Most magazines are required to shoot brands that can afford to pay for ads, so it’s really hard as a small brand to get featured in any magazine. I also think a lot of big brands steal smaller brands ideas and give no credit. Unfortunately, just how it goes.
What’s next for you after this moment? More custom celeb work, a collection, something totally unexpected?
I’m currently working on my next Spring 2026 collection, which I’m super excited for!.Also working on getting all my preorders together so I can see everyone wearing Briah Artemis this summer. In terms of celebrity work, I’d love to work with more people. I just really need to align with them creatively to be inspired.
Would you ever consider doing a fashion and music crossover event yourself?
Music is my second passion so it’s my dream. For a musician to become my muse, to dress them for an award show, to create their tour outfits, etc. I just love the idea of another artist expressing themselves through my clothes.
If your dress was a song, what would it sound like?
“Mean girls featuring Julian Casablancas” on the Brat remix album
Finally, should Charli have been the headliner?
I mean, yeah.
Photography: Myles Hendrik